The genus Odontoglossum is a large one, containing approximately 300 species. Botanists have tidied up the genus by moving some of the species to the genus Rossioglossum, but these are still commonly called odontoglossums. The exquisite inflorescences of these plants are produced from the bases of the flattened pseudobulbs, and are usually erect and arching. The flowers are often large and showy, and come in shades of white, yellow, or green, marked with purple or brown blotches.

Temperature and Humidity :Night temperatures of 52 to SS F and day temperatures of 65 to 70 F are ideal. However, plants in prime condition will tolerate a wider range, from a low of 45 F to a high of 90 F, for several days. High temperatures tend to prevent the flowers from opening properly, particularly the lip of Odontoglnssum crispum. Evaporative coolers installed in greenhouses in warm climates increase the chances of raising odontoglossums successfully. To maintain cool and humid conditions in the greenhouse, water under the benches most mornings and, on bright days, water the leaves (but just enough so that they will be dry by nightfall). This scheme is one way to prevent red spider mites, a microscopic culprit that damages foliage and flowers. A humidity of 65 percent is ideal, but odontoglossums are surprisingly tolerant of moderately lower or higher levels.

Light :Odontoglossums require between 1,500 and 2,000 foot-candies of light. The maximum light permissible results in faint red streaks in the leaves. They may be raised in maximum light, which results in improved flower substance, when provided with cool temperatures and plenty of air movement. In the house, an east-facing window is best. During the frost-free months, set odontoglossums outside in a breezy spot with full open light but no direct sunlight.

Air Movement: Odontoglossums thrive in an atmosphere that is fresh and buoyant from the use of fans, ventilation and misting.

Watering :The frequency of watering depends on the potting mix and ventilation. Odontoglossums require lots of moisture when rooted in a free-draining mix, but expect decreased vigor if the mix is allowed to remain soggy. Periodically, collect rainwater and use it to rinse fertilizer salts that accumulate in the mix. Excess fertilizer causes leaf tips to brown.

Fertilizing: Nourish Odontoglossums in bark mixes with 20-20-20 fertilizer diluted to one-quarter to one-half of the recommended strength.

PHALAENOPSIS-TYPE DENDROBIUM
hybrids are derived from Dendrobium phalaenopsis (syn. Dendrobium bigibbum). Commonly referred to as den-phals, they are among the easiest of orchids to grow under most conditions. These evergreen orchids reward the beginner with sprays of vividly colored long-lasting flowers in exchange for minimal care. Arching inflorescences are borne on upright, cylindrical, 2- to 4-feet-tall pseudobulbs, which are slightly swollen at or above the middle. New growths develop from "eyes" near the base of the pseudobulbs and sometimes higher near the leaf joints. Somewhat-leathery, 3- to 6-inch-long leaves clothe the upper half of the pseudobulbs, and usually remain for one to two years. The number of flowers borne on an inflorescence increases as the plant matures. First-bloom seedlings often bear one to five flowers per spray; mature plants can produce 20 or more flowers per cane on each of many canes. Individual flowers last six to eight weeks and provide color for several months each autumn. Den-phal flowers, typically round and flat, with overlapping petals and sepals, range in color from pure white to deep plum and shades and hues in between. To prevent distorting the flowers' orientation, avoid moving or turning specimens once inflorescences begin to emerge.

Temperature and Humidity :Den-phals thrive under a broad spectrum of temperature and light combinations. The recommended temperature range is between 50 and 90 F, but temperatures a few degrees higher or lower are acceptable and produce no detrimental effects. A relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent is optimal. In climates with lower humidity, mist the plants on hot, dry days. Avoid excessive water on the leaves and in the crown of the plants during humid and cool weather to prevent crown rot and fungal problems. Fans which keep the air moving without causing excessive chilling or drying keep the foliage dry, and also help remove heat from the leaves during hot weather.

Light :Direct filtered sun is essential for flowering, but provide 30- to 70-percent shade during midday. Bright light will generally encourage flowering, provided excessive leaf temperatures are avoided. Although phalaenopsis-type dendrobiums can be grown under artificial lighting, this practice is not recommended due to the plants' height.

Watering :The moisture needs of these orchids are similar to those of cattleyas. Thoroughly soak the potting medium, then allow it to dry out before watering again. Watering twice a week is generally adequate with properly potted plants in most climates. In winter, watering frequency may be reduced if the plants take longer to dry.

Fertilizing :Apply a balanced fertilizer containing minor elements on a regular basis. When using inorganic media it is especially important to provide an adequate mix of nutrients, including minor nutritional elements. This is important since little nutrition is provided by the decomposition of the potting medium.

Vanda are some of the most popular cultivated orchids. The broad spectrum of their flower colors include purple, brown, yellow, white, red, and blue-colors that have been mixed in fantastic combinations and patterns by hybridizers. The flowers are large and long-lived, and often appear more than once a year. They are produced from the points where the leaves join the stem. Vanda plants have an interesting shape; the thick upright stems bear opposite ranks of leaves nourished by a tangle of aerial roots. As with the other monopodia orchids, all new growth takes place at the top of the plant. Some species grow very tall-up to 6 feet-but you can keep them at a manageable size by topping them when they get too tall.

Temperature and Humidity :Vandaceous orchids thrive when the temperature during the day is 65 F or higher and night temperatures are not lower than 55 F. Warm temperatures and bright light promote active growth year-round. These orchids tolerate long periods of hot weather and short periods of cold. Some vandaceous plants can withstand temperatures as low as 38 F for two to three hours, suffering damage to root tips and flower buds, but not the plant itself. Humidity around 80 percent is appropriate on hot sunny days.

Light : Vandaceous orchids require strong light. Provide full morning sun when possible. Semi-terete and terete types can be grown in full sun all day in tropical areas where the humidity is high. Strap-leaved plants need additional protection during the hottest part of the day.

Air Movement :In the greenhouse, under summer sun, vigorous air movement from a fan is important to keep leaf temperature down and avoid cell damage from heat. For more open conditions - outdoors, in shade houses or lath houses - the natural breeze will balance light, temperature and moisture for healthy growth and flowering. It is important to restrict air movement under colder temperatures.

Watering :A high daytime humidity is essential, especially on sunny days, and vandaceous plants outdoors may need watering and misting several times daily during the growing season when the sun is bright. Somewhat less watering is required indoors, although on sunny days plants should be misted once or twice. Limit watering during cooler weather, on cloudy days or after repotting.

Fertilizing : Vandaceous orchids require copious quantities of nutrients. Give plants in the greenhouse a solution of a complete fertilizer, such as 20-20-20.

Flowering :flowers throughout the year.

Light :they grow easily in a bright window, east window is ideal in the home. In overcast, northern winter climates, a full south exposure may be needed.

Water :Plants should be thoroughly watered and not watered again until nearly dry. most problems occur by overwatering, if your orchid is growing in moss ,water when the moss is slightly spongy to touch, if it is growing in bark, use your timetable as a guide .(i.e.; every 5-10 days depending on the weather)

Fertilize :Provide your plant with nutrients on a regular schedule, If the bark is the potting media, a high–nitrogen fertilizer/water soluble (such as 30-10-10) otherwise balanced fertilizer (such as 18-18-18) is good. To encourage flowering a high-phosphorus fertilizer (such as 10-30-20) can be applied to promote blooming. We always recommend using a diluted ratio.

Repotting :Phalaenopsis are one of the most common-commercially grown and available orchids. Plants are either grown in a moss or bark media– if yours orchid came growing in moss, its best to replant the orchid soon after it finishes blooming- preferably in to bark- the guide to pot size should be one inch larger than the original container-fluid it arrived in rule, or provide a new pot just big enough that the roots touch the side of the new pot, fill in all the empty space with the fresh bark (1/2” to ¾” is good)

Bromeliads are among the most colorful plants living in the jungle canopy, rivaling even the orchids in the drama of their blooms and foliage. Many of these plants can be shaped like a vase, which will hold water, so the plant can slowly absorb the moisture as needed.

Light: Medium bright light will ensure that the foliage remains bright and in vibrant color. Many of the Bromeliads develop bright colors like we humans do -being out in the sun, it’s a suntan.

Water: Drench your plants before they become bone dry- typically every 7-10 days. Pour out any old water and replace with fresh, as you would do with cut flowers, if the plant is to large to service, let the plant use up all water at the base of the leaves before topping it off with fresh.

Food: Nourish plants with very diluted, “water soluble” fertilizer; a balance blend (18-18-18) is good. Be consistent in feeding to promote even, steady growth. Containers: Bromeliads like to be in small containers- Repotting is only necessary when the plant becomes to heavy for the container-fluid and or tips over easily. Preferred planting mix is peats and course sand.

The popular air plants are members of the Bromeliad family, rather than having a reservoir to hold water to drink, these clever plants absorb water on contact, like a sponge. Tillandsia plants are native to North and South America, with a wide range of habitats, living high in the canopy of trees, perched on the edge of a rocky cliff, even some happily clinging to a telephone line. – They all have unique character in their appearance depending on their specific natural range.

Light: Bright to very bright light is the rule- the more silver grey or fuzzy foliage- the more light they want to be happy.

Water: drench plants- typically every 5-7 days ,if your plant is living inside.(more often and as needed depending on the weather if growth outside.)

Food: Nourish plants with very diluted, “water soluble” fertilizer; a balance blend (18-18-18) is good. Be consistent in feeding to promote even, steady growth.

Potting: Usually Air Plants are growth without pots, tied on to branches, suspended in coconut shells, or nested on rocks inside a tea cup.